Angelina Jolie was here by all accounts. Tomb Raider was filmed in the ruins of Ta Phrom, one of very many temples around Angkor Wat. Possibly my favourite temple to wander around in previous years. They have left it with the vegetation, including huge trees, still growing out of the walls. Jo and I wandered around it 12 years back with just a few other visitors. Alas now we had to share it with bus loads of Chinese, Korean and Western tourists all clamouring for a selfie opportunity.
Jo's 40th birthday dawned with us several miles apart. She was still asleep back at the hotel. I had ventured out with Ralph, John and Mark to view the sunrise over the main temple. A 5am start that strangely didn't appeal to Mrs Spooky (or as it turned out young Lucas who had had a late night. I crept out like a ninja.
The sunrise was alas a bit cloudy. A few photo opportunities of cackling, squawking hordes of Chinese tourists and the temple behind them. We looked around the main temple as the temperature rose then returned to the hotel for breakfast.
On our way back, Ralph spotted an advertising board for cakes. Sure enough inside they sold some garish birthday cakes, smothered in brightly coloured cream. These things didn't just say 'Happy Birthday', they screamed it in your face in a screechy Cambodian voice. We bought one.
At the crack of 8-30am we had everyone present and correct in Reception for the arrival of our guide. We were off for a full on day of templing as the heat (Oh my God the heat !) grew. 36 degrees of moist heat feels a lot hotter than 36 degrees in the desert or on a beach in Europe. Eileen had lost 3 stone by 11.
I think I had seen all of the temples we visited before but still well worth seeing. Some had been further restored and besides, this is a World Heritage site and a truly beautiful location. Just bloody hot.
And what is there not to love about ancient stone buildings and jungle ?
My camera packed up mid morning. I should have charged the battery I guess.
After lunch we made the 30 minute trip out to Bante Srei. Pleasantly tranquil after the 'Boxing Day Sales' atmosphere of one or two of the previous temples.
I was going to dip out on another visit to the main temple of Angkor Wat but didn't in the end. I'm glad I went, as the sunlight moves around, the building seems to change colour. It's a photographers dream building. If only I had a camera instead of my phone.
So, finally, as sunset rapidly approached we set off for the last temple. This was where I proposed to Jo back in early 2004 as the sun set over the jungle. On that occasion we shared the temple and the view with maybe 10 others (including the disparaging monk as Jo was sick). This time we found a long queue of people as they only let a few hundred up at a time. Arse ! Sunset 20 minutes away, most up there would be waiting to view the sunset. We were going to miss it.
The Gods were smiling on us though. Cloud obscured the horizon so most of the sunset viewers gave up. We reached the top, just as the fiery red ball burst through the clouds in a very late show of defiance. We saw the sunset from the top of the temple !
We even found the exact spot where we had sat before and showed Lucas where his mother had thrown up all those years ago.
We trooped back down, happy, tired, sweaty and thoroughly templed out.
We dragged Jo down to the pool when we got back for sparkling wine, birthday cake and presents.
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