Jumbo Pilots

It was a late night last night. Our ferry across the river took a long time to cross as it got stuck in the shallows. The rapidly dropping water level now that the rainy season has finished and the dry season has begun meant that the small natural harbour on the far bank probably won't be viable tomorrow. Hence the gang of Lao labourers hastily constructing an extension to the wooden walkway at 10pm last night. We got home eventually though.

 

What a day. One to live in the memory for a long time. Like a well oiled machine we were all breakfasted and on to the ferry by 8-45am and heading off in the van by 9. First stop Kaung Si Falls. 

I've seen some picturesque waterfalls in my time but these would take some beating. White limestone with turquoise pools with an emerald green jungle background. 

We hiked to the top up a steep muddy trail. The little wooden bridges and wooden fences preventing you from plummeting to your death were pure Lao engineering. We didn't trust them an inch. 

Coming down the far side was easier. There was even a staircase down the side of the falls. In places as the flow was high, the water was coming over the wooden steps. A bit slippery and nerve wracking. It gave Jo something else to worry about regarding Lucas on top of sun burn, insect bites, falling to his death, etc. 

Further downstream we linked up with the rest of the group at a turquoise lake below a fall for a refreshing dip. A convenient tree stump with footholds jutting out over the water was enough to tempt the older children amongst us to leap off. 

Back on the bus and heading out towards the elephant village. The old name for Laos meant "Land of a million elephants". That number is apparently now down to a meagre 900 with just about none in the wild. It would appear that these elephant sanctuaries are a necessary evil. They did seem well cared for though. 

Lucas informed us he had never seen an elephant apart from in the zoo. This wasn't entirely surprising. They are fairly rare in Europe, Belize and Egypt where he had travelled before.

 

After lunch we threw on swimming gear and were taken to the 'mounting step'. Obviously a bit larger than in most stables. More like a first floor platform. I shared my elephant with Lucas and Jo, sat on its neck. No reins, no mane, no saddle and twice the height of a horse. Slightly nerve wracking, especially going downhill. 

All bar Helen were taking part in this as we plodded down towards the river. I think this is part of the working day that the elephants enjoy, swimming. 

We had looked at the murky, muddy waters of the Mekong previously and been amazed to see the occasional child foolish enough to swim in it. Now, here we were going in to the Mekong with immense grubby animals who occasionally produced floating balls of fiberous manure and were keen on throwing us off playfully. We got sprayed a few times with a concoction of murky water and elephant snot. It was all over far too soon. 

On the way home we were taken to the 'whisky village'. Well, it was more of a 'whisky stall'. That sold wine. And some whisky. Many of the bottles of whisky contained snakes and/or scorpions. Apparently it is supposed to give you extra strength and cure arthritis and 'limb sweats' whatever they are. The wine, made from sticky rice, probably didn't come from any of the recognised wine regions of France but some of the group bought some to take home. Bet it never comes out of the cupboard at home. Nobody in the group were apparently suffering from limb sweats though. 

The best views of sunset in Luang Prabang are from the top of Mount Phu Si. A 400 step climb to the stupa and viewing point above the town. Thus, with a certain amount of reluctance and whinging we managed to all congregate at the top, sweaty, tired and no doubt smelling of elephant dung and river water, to observe a large cloud obscuring much of the sun as it made its final descent. We stomped off down the hill for a beer. 

The evening meal on the bank of the river was another experience. Sarah by mistake had John's curry and was a blubbering mess as a result. Service was hit and miss and the alcohol was hastily purchased from the Seven Eleven up the road. The toilets were over the road in a laundrette/bedroom. The food was very cheap but the bill was very wrong. Eileen, the negotiator, pointed out the errors in his best Lao and got a 30% reduction. We left feeling justice was done. 

So, after a fleeting trip to the night market we were off to sit on a boat in the Mekong for 40 minutes. All part of the great Lao adventure. 

I really like this place. I would certainly like to visit Laos again. It's easy going, not too touristy yet, lush and green with stunning scenery. One note of warning though....the Chinese are intent on building a high speed rail connection from Kunming down to Singapore via Luang Prabang and Vientaine. What this does to tourism and number of visitors is a worrying thought. Get there and see Laos whilst it is still in its (relatively) raw state. It's a lovely country.